Don't use Glitsa very often. Mostly just in commercial jobs where perfection is usually not demanded. Had a homeowner request it. Used two coats of Glitsa Sealer and one coat of Glitsa Lite Scent Satin. I'm not very happy with final coat. Homeowner hasn't seen it yet. I do not have quick access to more Lite Scent to coat one more time. Purchased enough for job only. I do have plently of oil on hand. I finished the Lite Scent application this morning about 10:30. Was wondering if anyone ever put a coat of oil over the top of Lite Scent. I was thinking of getting in there early tomorrow morning before heading to next job by noon. It said on the Lite Scent can that it can be recoated after an overnight dry but was wondering if I'm pushing my luck using oil on top.

I can't say I like this stuff a whole lot. The clarity of the wood through the finish looks great but a stressful product to apply when you don't do it very often. I figured it would go down like water based. Not so with this job.

You didn't say why you are unhappy with the finish. Swedish finish does draw down as it cures so maybe some of what you are seeing will go away. I think oil on top would be a very bad idea.

Glitsa is a urea formaldehyde resin and takes 30 days to cure. But Dale Rosilio still uses Glitsa frequently and would probably be able to give you better advise.

Unhappy with how the roller worked out. I'm finding out with that finish is if you work it too much you get some slight orange peel and if you don't work it enough you get areas with slightly different sheen. The final topcoat gave me a couple of areas where in the right light you can see where the roller was used and slightly different sheen. I think after getting some slight orange peel with the sealer I didn't work it out enough with the topcoat. Not missed spots but really close to that look. That is the best way I can describe it.

I wouldn't put Oil over it, you might get away with it but as Howard said Glitsa takes time to cure and you'll have off-gassing issues. Go get more Lite scent, as Lite scent can be recoated by lite scent, abrade the floor, vac/tack and recoat. Why screw around introducing another variable? Try t-barring it and if you have access to the retarding agent get some and mix it in, it will allow more open/working time..........As long as you don't have any crazing/ wrinkling of the coating Glitsa is fairly easy to fix......

even with more glitsa lite sent u will be lucky not to run in to some issues with wrinkleing type problems . whenever u buff the next coat just buff very little . it may say on the can recoat in 24 hrs but that dont really mean nothing any more . me and many others did that for years with no problems then about 5 years ago it just work that way consistantly .

Thanks for the replies. I won't do it. I'll give it some time to cure and if I need to recoat in 30 days, I will throw that in as a solution.

Pore, what was your coverage rate and what nap roller did you use? Last time I used it I rolled and had to use a 1/2" to get close to their recommended rate of 350'/gal. Might account for the uneven finish.

Marco,

The distributor sent a 1/4 inch mohair roller. It was a struggle to get the coverage I wanted. I felt like I really should have been using a 3/8 inch like I do with water. If you used a 1/2" then holy cow, I had no chance. The coverage rate recommended was basically the same as using Traffic (which is what I typically use for water) but I trusted the distributor and gave it a try. The customer saw the floor and liked it and I got paid. They didn't see what I saw and if they are happy then I guess that is what matters but if a discriminating person goes in that house, I don't want my reputation going down. The floor was also maple which always shows any imperfections more than others it seems.

It will take a pretty demanding customer and me really wanting the work to use that finish again. In this economy, I can't afford ANY oops's. It seems like the customers are getting more and more demanding lately. Thats fine because things usually go well but using a finish I'm not used to using really makes me freak out right now. I got Charles Peterson's book on Wood Flooring (which I would highly recommend) and I think he mentioned he will only use that stuff if a customer supplies him with a system that will supply him fresh air directly. That pretty much makes it cost prohibitive.

I know I'm a little late posting on this particular topic, maybe it'll help potential Lite Scent users on the topcoat. For final topcoats using Lite Scent of the Glitza system, all I have to say is t-bar t-bar t-bar. Whether 18" or 12" synthetic duratool, it's the way to go. If available, use a helping hand (another person) to cut in the edges as to make the coating a bit quicker and efficient. Having someone else is also beneficial as you have a second pair of eyes on it to point out any potential problems i.e. holidays (dry spots), drips, puddles, streaking, etc etc etc. For someone who hasn't used this stuff before, well, it sucks. Just be quick, efficient, but with a great eye for detail, and it should be mildly forgiving in the end and look good. Hope this helps someone. Tom

9 guys out of 10 who buy glitsa from us, use a 3/8" purdy white dove.

When I use it I brush it on and don't have any issues. I usually use Gold Seal instead of Lite Scent. Gotta be careful with Glitsa though it can be finicky, especially over stains.