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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 5:56 pm 

Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:07 pm
Posts: 196
Location: Fargo, ND
I read the post on using oxalic crystals on pet stains a few weeks ago and was intrigued since I have never tried this technique. Today I stated a 600sqft re-sand that has a ton of very bad pet stains (old owner had many dogs who were allowed to urinate where they pleased). Way to many to do repairs, so the homeowners are going to stain dark. However, since I have the time, I want to attempt to use the oxalic acid (I understand I won't be able to fix the floor and it's not the most efficient use of my time).
In reality, I know I'm going to have to stain this floor regardless, but since neither I, nor the homeowners, have a tight time constraint, I though it would provide the perfect job to experiment with oxalic acid.

My concern is, since I will have be staining, should I be worried about contaminating the floor and causing problems with the stain?

Johannes, you mentioned to wait until the final cut. What is the reason for this? Does the bleaching not penetrate deep enough, or maybe the acid works better with a smoother surface?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 6:41 pm 

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:56 pm
Posts: 294
So is this an oak floor, red or white oak?
My experience is that you can bleach from "black" to light grey.
The hot water that you will be using will raise the grain.
We never have time for bleaching anymore. Putting neutral on the dark spots helps with blending, before you stain
the entire floor.
Pete


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 6:49 pm 

Joined: Tue Nov 04, 2008 7:07 pm
Posts: 196
Location: Fargo, ND
1 1/2 red oak. I have stained quite a few red oak floors with pet stains, so I'm confident that it will blend, but I'm not sure if the oxalic acid will interfere with he stain.


Last edited by jdclarey on Wed Jan 02, 2013 6:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 6:54 pm 

Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 10:56 pm
Posts: 294
The bleaching does get the red out. You may need to use a diluted stain over some of the surrounding wood so it blends in better, depending on the stain color you will be using


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 7:27 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2012 3:51 pm
Posts: 1957
jd:

Generally, acid is compatible with any of the finishes I've ever used including lacquers on furniture. It's the base solutions that can cause the problems. Oxalic acid is pretty safe.

There may be acid solutions that will interfere with finishes, I just don't know of any.

Charlie in Arizona


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 8:37 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2005 12:46 pm
Posts: 1432
Location: Pontiac , Mi
Jd,

Sand up to the final pass, treat with OA (I ussually need to do this twice), don't flood the floor, just wet the wood with the solution. OA does not destroy/whiten like liquid household bleach or 2 part bleaches, it restores the natural color.
Once it looks decent wipe with damp towels/rags and allow to dry real good (down to the mc before you started treatment so use a moisture meter).

Next finish the sanding and screening and stain/finish.

Sometimes there is just no rescue possible, good luck,

Johannes


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:14 pm 

Joined: Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:19 pm
Posts: 1763
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Jo, JD
Don't forget to neturalize the acid with white vinegar and water to remove the surface crystals.
Using a mix of Minwax Golden Oak and Maple cut in half for the base stain will help readjust the bleach area to aid the surrounding area to blend better when staining the final color.
AD


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