What's the best way to apply Glitsa?

Can it be poured from a pour bucket?

Is it possible to use a nylfoam applicator?

Can it be snowplowed like waterbase?

What solvents should be used with Bacca and Gold Seal for cleaning brushes etc?

Any other advice?

Richard,

Applying Glitsa is in what you're comfortable doing, some still brush using a glitsa brush, some use a Lambswool as I used to do, but using a T-bar IMO is the best method for applying and I've been applying the product for about 15 years. It can be poured out as I do, but you must use care in not leaving any drips off the bucket or they will show if not caught right away, i'd recommend having a rag with a little Lacquer thinner handy just in case. DO NOT by any means screen and or apply another coat before the previous coat is dry or you'll be resanding the floor { Think stripper on finish } do not apply too thin or you'll see the product skin over too quickly or not flow properly, I like to add a bit of retarder to the mix for a little extra open time.

I hope this helps

Dale

Rich
I believe alcohol is the thinner, and laq thinner/xylene is the solvent for cleaning.
I prefer to apply with a 3/8 inch nap roller. I don't like having it poured on the floor. After Gold Seal is applied, it cant be coated for 30 days. They do have lite scent that may be easier and less restrictive to work with.
Good luck
Paul

Lacquer thinner is recommended by Glitsa it's on the label.........

Not for thinning, but laquer thinner is what you use for cleaning brushes.

You need to get more open time use glitzas retarder

There is another thread on this board where Bill states that thinning product is illegal in the US.

let me try to find it:
http://www.floormasters.com/community/v ... c.php?t=61

I used glitza for 7 years and never thinned , did retard it though.

I was told recently that if you put a second coat of glitza on in 12 hours it will burn right in and be ok . but if you wait 24 hours you will need to wait 30 days.

I wouldnt take that to the bank but thats what I heard , any others have that experience?

Steve

You don't thin Bacca/Glitsa anyways so it's a moot point.


As for applying a 2nd coat of Glitsa topcoat, the recommendation is a 90 day wait or Glitsa Lite scent if need be. The 90 day wait is on the outside chance of a most likely astronomical situation where the coating wrinkles but it provides Glitsa with a great 3 month window to avoid being held responsible for a failure......

In 15 years of using the product only once have I ever had an issue and that was because we attempted to coat too soon.....

Do Bacca and Lite Scent apply the same way?

Do I need to use differant applicators?

A friend of mine who's been in this business for 20+ years showed me how to apply Glitsa. He used a lambswool on a block. He cuts in with a black china bristle brush. He uses a five gallon pail on a dolly and dips the lambswool in the bucket. Then he brushes out a about a 3 foot by 4 foot rectangle then moves the bucket and repeats the process down the length of the floor. He gets great results. I tried it and didn't have great success. I have gotten pretty good with poly lately and I've been to Bona school so I know how to do water based products. I am hoping to use those same familiar techniques with Glitsa. Is this possible? Can I pour out a line of Glitsa like it's Traffic and then snowplow from one end to the other?

Also, exactly how explosive is this stuff? I've heard that there should be no pilot lights in the room. Is the cloud of solvents in the room a bomb waiting to happen?

I have always snowplowed and moped glitza with my 16 in lambs wool.
I cut in with a china bristle brush.

The thing that took my awhile to learn when I first started was to wring out the block really well before blending with it.

If your just starting you can get lap lines when snowplowing.
Its just something that takes experience to get.

Just mt 2 cents worth.

Steve

Glitsa is a tremendous looking floor finish when done by one of you more experienced finishers. I tried and tried but without having an old hand show me, I could never get the results I'd seen others get. I used retarder and followed all the directions. Tried a Baca brush and a lamby. Most frustrating finish to apply. All the while, your eyes are burning out of your skull from the fumes because you got to close all the windows till it's applied and flowed out. And I'd still get headaches from the fumes even with my AO chemical respirator. After a few years and with the advent of Pacific Plus and Pacific Strong, I gave up. Even moisture cured was easier to apply, I think. Stank just as much though. But a Glitsa finished floor done be a seasoned pro is about the best looking finish I've seen. And my waterborne finished floors can look pretty awesome!

Richard,

Bacca and Lite scent are applied in the same manner, but yes you do need a different applicator. Bacca is a two-component sealer golden in color while Glitsa/lite scent are finish coats clear to semi white-ish depending on what flavor you're applying.
The pour a line and "snowplow" technique I believe was addressed, like I said be careful of drips they will show and retarder will give you a bit more open time.
Should you extinguish all ignition points like pilot lights? Probably not a bad Idea. I like to set up whole house window fans set on timers to help expunge the fumes and open basement windows and/or windows in other parts of the home to provide indirect ventillation.

Richard,
You can use the same applicator for Baca and GoldSeal as long as you clean it with laquer. I like a 12" brush, however rolling is nice too 3/8" nap and a 4" brush to cut in. Flat paint pads I hear get eaten up by the solvents.

T-barring was not to succesfull for me. Great for a big rectangular room, but always that last alleyway pulling out was tricky. I'd try the roller.

Best regards,
Doug