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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 2:04 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:42 pm
Posts: 892
Location: Tucson
Get a 1&1/2" hole saw. Drill straight down through a 2x4 with the hole saw. Make a 3/4" x 3/4" shoot with 2 - 1x2 and screw them down to another 2x4 with a 3/4" gap between them. Screw the 2x4 with the hole in it to the 1x2's and line the top of the hole up with the inside edge of the shoot. Slide a piece of 3/4" quarter round into the shoot. Run the hole saw down the hole with a high speed drill and through the quarter round. It leaves you a perfect cope. Before you pull out your cut piece of Qrnd mark the point of the piece on the shoot and this becomes the location you line up your pensil mark on your Qrnd.

AL


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 3:05 pm 
is all your shoe molding a 1/4 round? i never use that type. looks too big. i like the thinner, taller shoe molding. it is about 1/2inch thick and about 3/4 inch high with a rounded nose.. looks neater. and i always use painted shoe. i think hard wood shoe on the baseboard makes it look like the floor is going up the wall. most of all my work is new work so it all gets painted after anyway


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 5:38 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:42 pm
Posts: 892
Location: Tucson
Jan

You can do the same thing with a 1" hole saw for the 1/2" radius and use miterbox to make straight cut

AL


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 5:56 pm 
very neat jig AL


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 6:01 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2005 1:36 pm
Posts: 2239
Location: Los Gatos, CA theoakfloorsofmarco.com
Base shoe is 3/4" high x 1/2" wide so if I'm following this right, you'd still cut for the 3/4" radius.

Al, I got most of that, but can't understand what are the pencil marks at the end. Also, how do you measure for length after you've cut the radius. I usually mark for length before coping by measuring from the 45'ed end on the backside. Does your jig take off extra material?


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 6:07 pm 
marco

just measure from the bottom of the shoe down by the floor from the last full piece you nailed in to the wall for length. then when you measure your piece for a cut, just hook your tape on the coped end at the bottom and make your sqaure cut. it is also helpful to make all your copes on the same side, wether it be right or left and work around in a circle.

and with the shoe i use with a 1/2" radius at the top you would use a 1 inch hole saw to give you the 1/2" radius


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 6:13 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:42 pm
Posts: 892
Location: Tucson
Marco

I believe most base shoe has a 1/2" radius at the top and then is flat for 1/4" at the bottom. A 1" hole saw can cut the 1/2" radius. Then cut the straight section with a miter box. The mark is made at the long point of your cope cut on your jig. Just make a mark on the top face of molding and line it up with your mark on the jig.

AL


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 6:29 pm 

Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:42 pm
Posts: 892
Location: Tucson
Sorry Marco. Here is the answer to the second part of your question.

If you have a straight cut on the left and a cope cut on the right and it is 46" from wall to wall just hook your tape on the straight cut and make a mark at top of molding at 46". Line it up with your mark on the jig and drill your cope cut. Their is no loss in length as long as the drill is the size of the molding radius.

AL


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2007 11:05 pm 

Joined: Thu Sep 29, 2005 1:36 pm
Posts: 2239
Location: Los Gatos, CA theoakfloorsofmarco.com
Thanks AL, I understand now. A picture would say a thousand words tho.


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PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2007 11:47 am 

Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2005 7:42 pm
Posts: 892
Location: Tucson
Jan and Marco

I actually use a sharp Forstner drill bit and use my Dewalt 18V on high speed. But I was thinking a hole saw with a lot of teeth on it would work also.

AL


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