Well, I did something that no one here would think possible! Two Years ago Barry at Timbermate sent me some American Cherry Filler for a large job I was doing at the time. I had 2 large containers left over and decided to put it to the test.

One of my regular contractors referred me to a homeowner for some sanding/refinishing of wide plank antique grade pine flooring. No big deal... WRONG! She wanted all of the gaps between the boards filled! Now these gaps ranged from 1/4" to 7/8" in width!

I offered to fill these gaps with strips of old antique pine that I salvaged from another job. Telling her that I would NOT fill anything less than 3/8", or any gaps that were tapered, unless she wanted to spend the extra man-hour $$$$ to do this.

She did not like the price I gave her, so I offered to fill them using Timbermate Cherry Filler. I did a sample area, and she loved it. I had her sign off with a waiver of responsibility, because I just was not sure what was going to happen on large scale fill job like this.

Rough cut the floor with 36 grit (some cupping, so had to cross grain cut). Set ALL nails, Refastened loose boards in order to alleviate from boards moving up and down and loosening filler. Mixed the Timbermate 10 parts to 1 part Water, (Rather runny). Then using a commercial pastry decorator funnel, I guided the mixture into the cracks and filled them about 1/2 full. Took a couple of passes! I would do one gap and then go to the next one, then back to the previous.

Waited 24hrs and did this again with the same mixture. This brought the gaps up to about 3/4" full. Sanded my straight ahead pass (36 grit), did my 36 and 50 edger cuts around the room...

Waited 24hrs and then mixed a new batch. This time I only slightly thinned out the filler. Oh, reset any nail heads that were in need of setting. Using a plastic 4" putty knife - I "trowel" filled the gaps, removing excess filler as I went.

Waited 24 hrs and did this again with a slightly thinned out mix. Waited 24 hrs and then made my 50 cut straight ahead, cut the edges with 100 grit... Filled the gaps again with almost full strength filler. By now the gaps were FULL and I was only spot filling as needed. Waited about 5 hours and then cut straight ahead with 100 grit.

I then buffed the entire floor (carefully with a dulled 100 grit screen). Applied 1 coat of Waterlox Tung Oil Sealer / let dry overnight... Coated with Bona Woodline Semi-Gloss (Oil).... The next morning I spot filled where needed and followed up with a dampened sponge, constantly rinsing it out in a clean bucket of water (Changing water in bucket frequently). Buffed the floor with a NEW SLIGHTLY dulled 180 grit screen. Hand sanded where needed (including in areas I filled). Prepped the floor for coating and applied another coat of Bona Woodline Semi-Gloss. The next morning I checked gaps and thankfully did not have to attend to them at all. Coated Again with Bona Woodline Semi-Gloss.

Ok so some of you think that I must be nuts to spend that amount of effort on filling gaps! Well, #1, I was compensated for my crew's time and, #2 - it did not really take allot of effort! **My customer is going to read this and want some of her money back now!! Ha Ha.....

The floor was only 600 sq ft and it was a square room with no cabinets - so it was a perfect floor to try this on. Plus she only used it for 2 weeks in the summer and rented it out the rest of the year.

All of this was done TWO (2) years ago!!!! There are a few cracks in-between boards that were not refastened completely, so that is why I caution everyone to make sure that the boards are securely fastened if trying this. DO NOT TRY THIS ON SOMEONES HOME, unless you are a well "seasoned" floor sander.

Email me at mcfloors@adelphia.net and I will send some before/during and after pictures.

Greg
Midcoast Wood Floors, Inc.
Damariscotta, Maine

Greg:
Since you brought up the subject of Timbermate . . . I had a question.

Normally, white oak Timbermate takes any stain quite well. But when I use it with white oak "natural" using Waterlox sealer (no stain), it looks too white.

Anyone have a favorite way of tinting it a little for a "natural" finish?

Thanks.
Charlie

Greg, your a brave brave man lol.

Charlie seems like most of what I do here is red and white oak mixed so I use the red oak filler, blends in perfectly even on a natural finish. You might try mixing a little red oak in with the white to darken the color just a little. Keith

Timbermate's white oak is definetely too light. They should darken it a little. As far as color matching Bona's white oak is great. I have mixed the two together on occasion.

Thanks for the input on the Color. You are numbers two and three with the same issue. We will revisit our White Oak color as a result and let you know what we do to correct the issue.

Barry

I wouldnt use bona filler again to save my life timbermate or duraseal for me


superken76

Charlie,

Try the Red Oak version on White Oak, I just sanded and finished a 1000 sqft of 5/16 W/O flooring and troweled it twice with the Red Oak, matches quite well and better on the White as opposed to the Red species it's supposed to match.

Btw: That was with Bacca sealer, so I would feel safe in assuming that waterlox would achieve the same color match as the Bacca did here.

Dale

I agree with Kieth mix the colors if need be hey be an artist try it you with a little effort will find new ideas too work with in...and Barry will come up with a new color his wood filler is awsome i just wish my local company would give us a choice.....barry ill see you in Denver ...dm

charlie,
I've had the same problem with fillers and matching different wood tones, so I always have a can of umber and a can of lamp black in the trailer and other pigments also just in case i need to tint the filler to fit the occasion. just a deop or two goes a long way......